Crossing Yorkshire


Friday 20th
Settle to Chapel le Dale 13.6 miles

No rain for me today. A chilly wind kept me wrapped up, but it was great to have views. It was of walk of two halves. During the morning I hiked uphill, back into the fells. Lumpy, bumpy limestone country, with grey dry stone walls snaking this way and that. A highlight was winding along this ancient path that connected two villages.

Just think of all the people have strode along this track over the centuries. I’m sure famous trails like the Appalacian Way in the USA are fantastic, but the pleasure of glimpsing our forbears’ way of life makes walking in the UK a very special experience.

The afternoon segment was the hike over Ingleborough – the middle of Yorkshire’s 3 Peaks. I went up from Clapham, through the dramatic limestone gorge.

I’d hoped for snow on the top. It wasn’t to be, and nor were the views, as the summit was cosseted in clouds a day. But there was some frosty rhime, giving you a clue, dear reader, as to the wind chill up there. It was bloomin cold.


Trying to warm up, I skipped rapidly down the side of the hill, to Chapel le Dale, and my next BandB.

A couple of other little moments from the day. After my previous sightings of the boots and milk – random objects with a story to tell, I decided to leave my own. I was given two very green bananas as part of a packed lunch this morning. So I left them laid out neatly on the bridge in Settle. Hopefully there is someone in Settle who loves green bananas.


Second, isn’t this green wall simply beautiful?


Tomorrow I will cross out of Yorkshire and into Cumbria. People who don’t live in Yorkshire often have no idea what a huge county it is. I’ve now tramped right across the county; 160 miles of walking.

Saturday 21st
Chapel le Dale to Helmside (near Dent) 11 miles

What a treat. A blue sky day. These were the views as I strode out of Chapel le Dale:



IMG_3341Shy Ingleborough, wrapped in a cosy scarf of cloud.

I stopped to chat with a bubbly farmer, who was out catching moles. He was delighted with his haul, and he fished a couple of the little chaps out of a bucket for me to inspect. Their spade like front paws are incredible. I stroked their fur. So soft.

It may seem harsh to cull moles, but there’s plenty to go round, and they inhibit grass growth, reduce the quality of silage, and damage grass cutting machinery.

I reached the whaleback crest of Whernside, and strode along the snowy ridge to the summit – the highest point in all of Yorkshire. I could see the Lake District hills for the first time, and the sea in Morcambe Bay. I’m finding it hard to choose the photos to include in this blog post. I took loads.



I crossed into Cumbria and it was all downhill to the little cobbled village of Dent.


Finally a quick 2 miles along Dentdale valley took me to my lodgings. Which turned out to be a BandB with two of the kindest hosts I’ve met. They took such good care of me. Warm scones, straight from the oven, greeted me on arrival. Life doesn’t get much better. The Old Craft Barn definitely goes into my top 5 of UK BandBs. Thank you, Joe and Caroll.

Sunday 22nd
Rest day (inc 3 miles to Sedbergh)

Today I got in an hour’s short walk to Sedbergh, and then that was it for the day. I’d planned for today to be a rest day – I need one, and the weather forecast for today has been looking awful ever since midweek. It was grey and nippy but dry, during my stroll into Sedbergh. As soon I settled down with a cup of tea, on came the freezing sleety rain. It’s continued all day. It’s so dark and grey outside, it seems like dusk.



IMG_3406 Sedburgh

Perfect timing for a rest day.

Finally, I saw this sign the other day. Any guesses as to what it means?


13 thoughts on “Crossing Yorkshire

  1. Is it Walkers Beware Hidden Dangers? or Walkers Banned – No Entry – Hidden Dangers – Mine Shafts, Falling Trees, Dangerous Animals etc?

    Loved the mossy wall, it looked so soft but I know that is a disguise. Underneath its all hard, sharp rock!


  2. I’m developing a bit of a liking for Yorkshire myself, I visited twice last year. More importantly, I know it’s been said already, but I couldn’t resist reiterating how good the pics are, giving a great flavour of the trip. Despite my fire being on I shivered at some of them.

  3. I really enjoyed this post – that lane – Feizor to Austwick? It’s a beautiful lane and in the spring and summer the sides are carpeted with wonderful flowers.
    The “hidden dangers” sign – is it on the lane down to Clapham from Austwick by any chance, before you get to the tunnel?
    And it needs repeating – your photos are fantastic.

  4. Lovely photos. And you’ve brought back memories of my teenage holidays in the area, including working in the kitchen of a cafe/restaurant called Epicure in Sedbergh. Long gone now.

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